Is Cotton the Sustainable Future? Discover Why It’s a Game-Changer

Cotton is a natural, biodegradable fiber that has been around for centuries, but with the rise of more eco-conscious industries looking for greener alternatives to synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon, the question of whether cotton is sustainable is being debated. Synthetics have gained popularity because they are durable and long-lasting, but cotton is still growing strong. In fact, the cotton industry is projected to grow from a market value of $43.96 billion in 2024 to $50.2 billion by 2029. The U.S. is a major player in the cotton industry, producing around 12 million bales of cotton each year. While cotton is mainly used for apparel and textiles, it’s also found in other industries, including cooking, soap-making, furniture, and cosmetics. As concerns about sustainability and reducing carbon emissions rise, industries are moving away from non-biodegradable synthetic fibers. Cotton has a long history in the textile industry, with the first seed believed to have been planted in Florida in 1556. But, with the invention of materials like nylon, polyester, and spandex in the mid-20th century, synthetics became more popular. While synthetics are durable, they are now under scrutiny due to microplastic pollution and their reliance on petroleum. So, even though cotton is getting more attention as a sustainable option, its sustainability is still questioned, particularly regarding water use and the chemicals involved in farming. Despite these challenges, many industries are leaning into cotton as a more environmentally-friendly alternative to synthetics, especially to meet the demand of eco-conscious consumers.

The Cotton Controversy

One of the most cited concerns about cotton farming is how much water it uses. It’s often claimed that producing a single pair of jeans requires 20,000 liters of water—this number came from a 1999 World Wildlife Fund (WWF) report. However, this statistic was later debunked because no original source could be found, and updated studies have reported much lower estimates. For example, the UN Environment Program revised the estimate to 3,781 liters per kilogram of cotton, which is closer to the amount needed for a pair of jeans. But, the actual water consumption depends heavily on where the cotton is grown. In places like the southeastern U.S., cotton farms may only need around 234 liters of water per kilogram, while farms in the southwest use around 3,272 liters. The difference mostly comes down to whether the farm relies on rainwater or irrigation.

Biodegradability

One of cotton’s biggest selling points is its biodegradability. Unlike polyester, which takes 20 to 200 years to break down, cotton decomposes in just one to six months. Cotton also plays a role in addressing the growing microplastic pollution problem. In 2004, researchers discovered that synthetic fibers—especially from textiles—were accumulating in the oceans, contributing to microplastic pollution. These fibers are released when clothes are washed and can end up in the air, water, and even our food. While measures like special filters in washing machines and treatment plants are being used, it’s hard to prevent the release of these fibers entirely. Cotton is a better alternative since it doesn’t contribute to the microplastic issue as much, even though cotton fabrics can shed microfibers too. The difference is that cotton fibers break down much faster and don’t leave harmful plastic remnants. Cotton’s biodegradability also means it can be composted instead of being sent to landfills. In a study by Cornell University, cotton fabric broke down 77% after just 90 days in compost, whereas synthetic materials barely degraded. Composting cotton also helps enrich the soil, which contributes to carbon sequestration, as it returns carbon to the earth instead of releasing it into the atmosphere. This is important because the vast majority of textiles—around 75%—end up in landfills, releasing harmful gases like methane, which is much more dangerous to the climate than carbon dioxide. Textiles made from synthetics, especially, also release hazardous chemicals into the soil.

The Impact of Drought on Cotton Plants

Some of the concerns about cotton’s sustainability revolve around its water needs, particularly as climate change leads to more frequent droughts. It’s estimated that 56% of the global cotton crop depends on rainwater, and many worry that this will lead to lower yields as droughts become more common. However, cotton plants are actually fairly drought-resistant. They can grow deep root systems, adapt their cells, and reduce their photosynthetic rate to survive. Research is also focusing on identifying drought-resistant cotton varieties, so farms can plant these hardier crops to maintain or even boost yields despite worsening drought conditions. It’s also worth noting that cotton doesn’t require more water than other crops like wheat, maize, and rice. In the U.S., cotton farms use just 3.8% of all irrigated land, and about half of these farms rely solely on rainwater. Water usage varies depending on the farming practices used—methods like furrow irrigation are only 60% efficient, while sprinkler and drip irrigation are far more effective at using water. Optimizing irrigation systems can help cotton farms use less water, which is a priority for sustainable farming.

Fertilizers: How Bad Are They?

Fertilizers are another area of concern for cotton farming. According to the USDA, a large percentage of cotton farms use synthetic fertilizers—86% use nitrogen, 61% use phosphate, and 48% use potassium. Fertilizers are energy-intensive to produce, requiring fossil fuels that release carbon emissions. They also disrupt the soil’s natural balance, killing beneficial microbes that are essential for healthy farming in the long term. Overuse of fertilizers can also release nitrous oxide, a potent greenhouse gas. One of the biggest contributors to cotton’s carbon footprint is the production of synthetic nitrogen fertilizer, which accounts for nearly half of the emissions related to cotton farming. However, some farms are trying to reduce their environmental impact by switching to natural fertilizers made from plant materials, animal by-products, and minerals. Though these alternatives are harder to implement and more expensive, they offer a way to make cotton farming more sustainable in the future.

Pesticides and Herbicides

Pesticides and herbicides are commonly used on cotton farms, but their environmental impact has been a point of concern. While outdated reports still claim that cotton uses 25% of all pesticides and insecticides globally, newer estimates show that cotton actually accounts for just 4.61% of pesticide use and 10.24% of insecticide use. Despite these lower figures, pesticides are still widely used in cotton farming. A 2019 USDA study found that 93% of U.S. cotton fields were treated with herbicides, and 53% were treated with insecticides. The problem with these chemicals is that they can pollute water sources and harm aquatic life, and they pose health risks to farmers and nearby communities. However, alternatives to these chemicals do exist. Organic cotton farming has been on the rise, and this approach uses natural methods to manage pests and encourage healthy crops. Organic farming practices like crop rotation—alternating different crops to reduce pests—can help keep the soil healthy and reduce the need for chemicals. Although organic cotton farming can be more difficult and labor-intensive, it’s a promising alternative to conventional farming methods. In 2019, only 0.2% of U.S. cotton was grown organically, but this percentage is steadily increasing.

Organic Cotton Farming: A Sustainable Option

The growth of organic cotton farming is part of a broader movement toward more sustainable agricultural practices. Organic cotton farming avoids synthetic fertilizers and pesticides and instead uses natural methods like crop rotation, companion planting, and natural pesticides. While it’s more challenging, organic farming preserves biodiversity and reduces the environmental impact of cotton cultivation. However, organic cotton still represents a small portion of total cotton production, so its adoption needs to increase to make a significant difference.

Biodegradable Alternatives: Cotton vs. Jute and Flax

Because of cotton’s reputation for being water-intensive, some are turning to other biodegradable alternatives like jute and flax. Jute, made from the bark of the jute tree, is cheaper than cotton and biodegradable but has a rough texture and doesn’t hold up well when washed, which limits its use in textiles. Flax, also biodegradable, is softer than cotton but more expensive and labor-intensive to grow. Despite its environmental benefits, flax is seen as a luxury product, which makes it less accessible for mass production. Cotton still holds the advantage due to its lower cost, durability, and versatility. In fact, recent research has even explored blending cotton with jute to create a fiber called “jutton,” which combines the benefits of both materials.